Q & A

Q. Why buy from Unlimited?

A. One of the biggest challenges all customers face when buying fiberglass parts is avoiding the low-end aftermarket items that have flooded the market. Most of these parts consist of low quality replacement hoods for  trucks and other vehicles that are built to low-quality standards. They are laminated dry, or poor secondary bonding techniques are used, resulting in de-laminating of layers cloth and mat. Some parts are built with sub-standard resins and hardeners, which do not ever "fully" cure. These parts also are have blisters, bubbles and imperfections.
Most of the time, it is impossible to identify a poorly-made part from a well-built one. The sad thing is that many of these  issues do not show up until the part has been painted, installed and put in use. Cost is not a factor. Just because a part might cost more does not mean it is better. They can still be built to low-quality standards.
At Unlimited, we use a specially formulated gel coat made by "Cook Composites". One of the largest makers of resins and gel coats. They are the parent company of "Composites One". The fiberglass matting we use is 1-1/2 oz and 2 oz. depending upon the part and multiple layers are used. At Unlimited we also make all parts with the added layer of fiberglass "Cloth". Te fiberglass to resin ratio is always above 50%.  The ratio in a "chopper" part is 30% (not good, too heavy and brittle). At Unlimited we use high quality resins in all parts. We maintain a QC lab on premises to check all resin batches for: Curing time, strength, viscosity and HDT. What is HDT? It is one of the most important qualities of resin. It stands for
Heat Distortion Temperature. This is the temperature at which the cured resin (in an unlaminated form) will soften. We check our resin batches to make sure it will exceed 180 degrees F. There are resins available that go as low as 112 degrees F ...Bad!

We do use some non-fiber reinforcing materials in some of our products. These consist of steel plates for latching areas of hoods and steels inserts or steel plates in hinge mount areas. Steel is used since the bolts used to mount the hood to the hinges are 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 standard bolts and must properly thread into the steel threaded inserts we use.
In some of our "Full Race / Full Pin-on" hoods we use a laminated tube reinforced with light weight structural fiberglass and resin. We never use wood, plywood or MDF type products in our parts. Some companies use wood in the hinge areas for "Screwing" into for mounting the hinges...not our parts!

Most fiberglass parts continue to cure many weeks after they are made. At Unlimited we use a  special catalyst system that causes the resin to achieve a full cure before the parts comes out of the mold. All parts are left in the mold at least "overnight" to insure this full cure. We have been using this proprietary catalyst system since 1994. When, with the help of Cook Composites it developed especially for us. We continue to use it to this day. This system is more costly, but insures our customers of a great fiberglass part.

Parts that require an inner bracing or a "Liner" have liners  that are built in separate molds and "glassed" into the underside of the main part. We do not use "glue" or adhesives to achieve the "Bond". We use fiberglass matting and resin (same as what is used in the parts) to "Bond" these structures. This "Bond" is also enhanced and made perfect through the use of special resins both on the part and liner. These resins assure maximum "Secondary Bonding" because of their formulation. Many low priced resins must have secondary bonding done within hours of layup, thus opening up the  opportunity for human error and parts will de-laminate!

Parts purchased from Unlimited come with a full 90 day warranty.

Q.  When installing a fiberglass hood can you use the stock hardware?

A. Partially. You can employ the factory hinge assembly, but you must change the springs to some with less tension. If you keep the stock springs you’ll likely damage the hood over time. Unlimited offers a full selection of low-tension replacement springs, as well as optional prop rods.

Q. What is required to install a scoop?

A. Many of Unlimited’s hood scoops are equipped with either internal or external flanges. This facilitates installation with pop-rivets or bolts. It’s recommended to also use fiberglass and epoxy resin for reinforcement and a finishing touch. Non-flanged scoops are installed using fiberglass cloth and resin. Complete installation details are available on this website.

Q. Can I use fiberglass doors on the street?

A. You can, but the reality is that you probably wouldn’t want to. The doors are designed for racing applications and for use with bolt-in Lexan windows. There are no provisions to mount roll-up window tracks, cranking mechanisms, etc.

Q. Why are Unlimited scoops and body parts plain gray?

A. Since 99.9% of the hoods, scoops and body panels we sell will be painted to match the vehicle, we do not burden our customers with the added expense of a white or black gel-coat finish. This makes it easy to take care of any imperfections, and our components are easy to prep and paint.

Q. What are the advantages of fiberglass components over stamped steel?

A. For openers, fiberglass won’t dent or ding under mild contacts like steel panels, and it won’t rust. Ever. Of course, fiberglass body parts are substantially lighter than their steel counterparts and can shave hundreds of pounds of performance-robbing weight.

Q. How about the weight difference in hoods?

A. A fiberglass hood is typically about 1/3 the weight of a steel hood.

Q. Why would I want fiberglass bumpers?

A. Here’s where some serious weight gains can be made. And the fiberglass is easily painted to match the vehicle for a monochromatic look. Many are used for racing.

Q. Do hoods, fenders, etc. have to be fitted to the vehicle?

A. In most cases, yes. You will find there are surprisingly generous OEM tolerances, and this combines with vehicles that have been subjected to road abuse and flexing for 30, 40 or 50 years. Some applications may require trimming the part.

Q. Can I get a good with a different scoop?

A. Yes. We can custom-build a hood with most any scoop. In many instances this makes for a strikingly different look (like Hemi scoop on a Camaro).

Q. What about clearances for hi-rise manifolds, blowers, etc.?

A. To accommodate highly modified engines, Unlimited offers cowl induction-style hoods for most applications with heights up to nine inches.

Q. Can I install a fiberglass scoop on a steel hood?

A. Sure. The same basic procedures apply for all hood installations.

Q. Why is hand-laid fiberglass better?

A. The “chopper guns” used to make some fiberglass components spray a mixture of short fiberglass strands and resin into the mold. Controlling thickness is difficult. And because the strands are short, they do not have the structural integrity of woven fiberglass cloth. The resin-to-glass ratio is much higher in a “chopped” part, which greatly reduces its strength.

With our hand laid process, thickness is accurately controlled through the number of layers employed, and the resin is hand-worked through the cloth to assure optimum consistency and maximum strength.

Q. What happens when a part is damaged in transit?

A. Great care is taken packaging all Unlimited components, but we have no control over what happens after the freight company takes over. It is absolutely IMPERATIVE to note any damage to the box—regardless of how insignificant it may appear—and it’s highly advisable to examine the contents before signing off. Any issues with damaged shipments MUST be taken care of with the freight company. However, we are here to help with ANY freight problems.

Q. What are the differences in hoods?

A. Unlimited makes three different style hoods. One is designed to utilize the factory hinges (with a low-tension spring) and latch assembly. It will operate just like stock. Another uses the OEM hinges (remove springs and use our low tension springs), but has no provisions for a hood latch. You must use hood pins to secure the front. Both of these are medium-weight hoods. There is also a lightweight lift-off style race hood that is for use with hood pins all around.

Here are photos and description of the 3 different mounting
style of hoods that we produce.

  Description advantage disadvantage  
 1. Full bolt on Full bolt on hoods have provision to mount to stock (original factory) hinges..and...use front latch. Our low tension springs must be used, or prop rod. No hood pins to deal with, can use low tension springs, more secure for anti-theft. Easy to open hood. Higher cost
Higher weight


Front latch area of ML791

Rear hinge mount area of ML791  
  Description advantage disadvantage  
 2. Pin front,
 Bolt on rear
Pin-Front hoods have provision to mount to stock (original factory) hinges..and...use 2 pins in the front. Our low tension springs must be used, or prop rod. 2 front hood pins, can use low tension springs. Easy to open hood.
Lower cost

Medium weight
cannot use front latch


Front latch area of ML728

Rear hinge mount area of ML728  

Prop rod

Our part number:LA-18 or LA-24
  Description advantage disadvantage
 3. Pin all around "Full pin on hoods" have light weight inner frame. 4 hood pins for low weight, eliminating latch and hinges. Great for drag applications.

Cannot use hood hinges or front latch



Our part number:LA-18 or LA-24


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